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從家族工坊到世界珠寶帝國,，卡地亞何以成就百年品牌傳奇,？| 美好商業(yè)中心直播精彩回顧（下）
近日，經(jīng)濟學人·商論與中信出版集團聯(lián)合舉辦訪談直播《從卡地亞看家族傳承》,?！督?jīng)濟學人·商論》總編輯、法國里昂商學院美好商業(yè)中心學術委員吳晨對話卡地亞第六代傳人,、《卡地亞家族傳》作者弗朗西斯卡·卡地亞·布里克爾,，探索了百年知名珠寶品牌卡地亞歷時四代經(jīng)久不衰的奧秘，以及在財富全球化的政治,、經(jīng)濟,、文化浪潮中敏銳把握時代變化、不斷更新迭代關鍵所在,。法國里昂商學院作為戰(zhàn)略合作伙伴為此次活動提供支持,。
Q1.吳晨主編：你認為卡地亞為什么能成功？為什么后來品牌會被出售,？
What makes the company a success? And why would it to have been sold?
朗西斯卡·卡地亞：卡地亞家族第三代之所以能夠成功,，與他們強大的適應能力密不可分。他們會調(diào)整策略,，在適應市場需求的同時,，滿足自身對產(chǎn)品和工藝的要求與期待?？ǖ貋喖易宄蓡T一直有一個夢想：建立世界上最領先的珠寶公司,。為此，他們經(jīng)歷了千辛萬苦,。
I think part of the reason for the 3rd generation of Cartier success was their adaptability. They will adjust their strategies to meet their own requirements and expectations for products and processes while adapting to market demands. Cartier family member had a dream to build the leading jewellery firm in the world. Even during really difficult times —— the first world wars, three brothers never forgot this dream.
“付出了這么多,，為什么下一代會賣掉品牌？”這個問題正是激發(fā)我撰寫《卡地亞家族傳》的原因,。在我看來,，前三代傳人和第四代的區(qū)別在于：價值觀傳承上的中斷,。三兄弟分布在各大洲，他們子女的成長環(huán)境截然不同,，很難共享同樣的價值觀和責任感,。此外，財富之中也確實包含著自身毀滅的種子,。
“After all that efforts, why on earth did the next generation sell it?” So that’s kind of why I approached The Cartier. The difference between the first three generations and the 4th generation is that the transmission of values breaks down. Because the three brothers are spread out in continents and their sons and daughters have very different upbringings. It’s very hard for them to share the same value. And also I think wealth does contain the seeds of its own destruction.
我的祖父始終堅持以手工的方式精雕細作,，他會花上好幾個月的時間，用最好的黃金,、最好的材料來制作獨一無二,、舉世無雙的珍品。但品牌被出售后,，接手方更注重利潤率,，也不想再以漫長而昂貴的方式制造珠寶。祖父對于出售家族企業(yè)一事感到非常難過,，在很長一段時間內(nèi)都不想談論這個問題,。
My grandfather was still making hand-made pieces in the same way that his father had done it. The watch he’s making were taking months. Meanwhile, the New York branch had been sold to investors who were more focused on margins. They didn’t want to make things in the long, expensive way anymore. He was very saddened by it and he didn’t want to talk about it for a long time.
Q2.吳晨主編：你對于有志于建立本土奢侈品牌的中國企業(yè)家有何建議？
If Chinese entrepreneurs wanted to come up with a Chinese luxury brand, what would be the tips or suggestions that you give to them?
朗西斯卡·卡地亞：卡地亞可能從沒想過要建立一個品牌,，其初衷始終是成為世界上獨一無二,、領先的珠寶公司。為了實現(xiàn)它,，家族成員們專注于用最好的質(zhì)量,、最好的工匠和最原始的設計，來打造世界上最精品的珠寶,。通過打造不容易被取代的手工藝,、建立專業(yè)化的設計師團隊，以及采用大膽的想法和新穎的材料,，讓有趣的,、創(chuàng)新的產(chǎn)品來俘獲客戶的心。
I think for the Cartier, At the time, they weren’t thinking of build the brand. They just wanted to be the leading jewelry firm in the world, and part of that was being exclusive. How were the three branches going to do that? The way they do that was by focusing on making the best. As I say, the best quality, using the best craftsmen, the most original designs, innovating every season there was something different. You were always one step ahead of your clients. You know what they want before they want themselves.
中國在許多領域奮力趕超,，但要想打造本土奢侈品牌不一定要以快速致富為目標,，也不需要以打造炫耀奢侈感作為核心。你要做到讓你的作品具有代際傳承的價值和魅力,，讓人們忘記它的價格,，忘記這是一個品牌，而珍視其真正蘊藏的價值,，這才是對卓越工藝真正的理解,。
China is playing catch-up in many areas. I think there will be more people wanting to appreciate the art and trying to get a sense of luxury but not necessarily to show off. Many of the brands in China are being used simply as a way to show off “I’m rich”. But when Cartier was a family firm, the focus was just to make beautiful pieces so that people would wear. You make something beautiful even if it’s expensive. People will want it and they will soon forget how much they paid for it.
Q3.吳晨主編：對于想要在不同時代擴張的全球品牌和公司,，有沒有什么經(jīng)驗可以分享,？
So what would be the lessons for the global brand and companies wanting to expand at a different age?
朗西斯卡·卡地亞：對中國企業(yè)來說,，無論是向國外拓展業(yè)務，還是將國外業(yè)務引入中國,，都可以汲取一些共同的經(jīng)驗和教訓,。比如，如何建立客戶的忠誠度,？怎樣讓客戶感到公司的價值,？對此，卡地亞選擇的是主動出擊,，順應全球化浪潮,，讓世界各地的客戶感覺自己與品牌或者公司息息相關，甚至成為它們當中的一部分,。
I think the lessons are probably still the same. Fundamentally, what they felt was how do you build that client loyalty? One thing is the product, but the other way is that client feels valued by that company. And how did Cartier do that? As I say, they didn’t just wait for the client to come to them. They went to the client. The globalisation is making clients all over the world feeling included and part of it. Whether that is traveling to them but reaching out to them.
此外,，從供應商和生產(chǎn)制作的角度來說，卡地亞也在世界各地設有工廠,，我的祖父曾走遍印度和斯里蘭卡,，親自到源頭地去尋找最好的寶石。你若守株待兔,，就只能得到和隔壁人一樣的東西,。如果你想與眾不同，就一定要多走一步,，永遠別指望機會會主動上門來找你,。
Is in terms of the suppliers and the production, Cartier already had workshops in different places. It was buying gems and precious metals from different places. My grandfather travelled around India, Sri Lanka…He would go to the source to get the best gems. He didn’t just wait for things to come to him. Because if he waited for things to come to him, He would get the same what the person next door was getting. If you want to differentiate yourself, I think you need to go that extra mile.
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